Malabo

Malabo, formerly called Santa Isabel, is the capital of Equatorial Guinea (although the future capital Oyala-Ciudad de la Paz is under construction) and of the province of Bioko North. It is located on the north coast of the island of Bioko —an island formerly known by the Bubis, its native inhabitants, as Etulá and as Fernando Poo by Europeans— and has a Approximate population of 297,000 inhabitants.

The official languages of the city, as well as of the whole country, are Spanish (the main language and practically the only one used), French and Portuguese.

Malabo is the oldest city in Equatorial Guinea. For this reason you can see a large number of buildings with colonial architecture that at the same time coexist with modern buildings built in the last and recent stage, already after independence. The streets in the center, with a square design, reveal the old conception of the modern city, with pedestrian zones in all of them. The city also offers numerous green and leisure areas. This phenomenon causes a feeling of pressure architecture attenuated by the low stature of the buildings in a combination between architectural westernization and Africanism.

It was called Port Clarence when it was founded by the British, and later it was renamed Santa Isabel during the Spanish period. In 1973, during the presidency of Francisco Macías Nguema and in the first years of independence, it received the current name.

History

Portuguese conquest of the region

In 1472, in his attempt to find a new route to the Indies, the Portuguese navigator Fernando Poo discovered the island of Bioko, which he named "Fermosa". of its discoverer, Fernando Poo. At the beginning of the XVI century, specifically in 1507, the Portuguese Ramos de Esquivel made a first attempt at European colonization on the island of Fernando Poo. He established a factory in Concepción (present-day Riaba) and developed sugarcane plantations, but hostility from the indigenous Bubi people and disease quickly put an end to this experience.

With the treaties of San Ildefonso in 1777 and El Pardo in 1778, during the reign of the Spanish King Carlos III, the Portuguese ceded to the Spanish the island of Fernando Poo, that of Annobón and the right to carry out trade in the part continental in an area of influence of approximately 800,000 km² in Africa (Gulf of Biafra), in exchange for the Colonia del Sacramento on the Río de la Plata and the Santa Catalina Island off the Brazilian coast (occupied by the Spanish). The area stretched from the Niger Delta to the mouth of the Ogüé River —in present-day Gabon— and included, in addition to the islands of Fernando Poo and Annobón, the offshore islands of Corisco and Elobey.

After the expedition of the Count of Argelejos (Brigadier Don Fernando Felipe de los Santos Toro) and Lieutenant Colonel Primo de Rivera, who disembarked in present-day Luba on October 24, 1778 to take possession on behalf of Carlos III of Spain of the Territories of the Gulf of Guinea, on board the ships Santa Catalina, Soledad and the brig Santiago, the various attempts to colonization by Spain of these lands, who did not dedicate a particular interest in Spanish Guinea, and who in 1827 authorized the British to use the island as a base for the work of persecution of the slave trade.

British foundation of the city as Port Clarence

Illustration of Port Clarence in 1840.

In 1821, British Captain Nelly boarded the island of Fernando Poo. He found it abandoned and founded the settlement of Melville Bay (Riaba). A few years later, another British captain, William Fitzwilliam Owen, decided to colonize the island and establish a base in the north of it—the site of present-day Malabo—for British ships pursuing European slave traders. This is how Port Clarence emerged, on December 25, 1827, on the ruins of a previous Portuguese settlement. The name was chosen in honor of the Duke of Clarence, who would later become William IV of the United Kingdom. The native bubis of the island called it "Ripotó" (“place of foreigners”). The population of the capital increased due to the arrival of freed slaves from ships seized by the British Navy who decided to stay and live on the island. Settlement of freedmen in Port Clarence predated the formation of Sierra Leone as a freed slave colony. The descendants of these enslaved and freed people still remain on the island. They would be joined by other emigrants who arrived as free workers from the current countries of Liberia, Sierra Leone, Ghana, the Ivory Coast, Benin, Nigeria and Cameroon, constituting the population group known as "Creoles" or Fernandinos, and whose own language is a Bantu-English pidgin with elements of Spanish.

During the period of British presence, British consuls automatically became governors of the colony. Prominent among them was Governor John Beecroft, a British mulatto sailor who modernized the capital, whose work was later recognized by Spain by erecting a monument at Punta Fernanda.

Definitive Spanish control and new capital as Santa Isabel

Santa Isabel (now Malabo), circa 1857, in The Universal Museum.

In 1844, when Queen Elizabeth II of Spain was already ruling after the regency of her mother María Cristina and Baldomero Espartero, in an attempt to modernize Spain and rescue its heritage, the Spanish Crown informed the United Kingdom of its desire to regain control of the colony and, therefore, of the island. It took another decade to carry out this direct control. The capital was already more dynamic and the Protestant religious missions were having great success. Both elements helped to change Spain's attitude, in addition to the internal reasons already mentioned.

The Spanish retook control of the island in 1855 and the capital Port Clarence was renamed Santa Isabel, after Saint Isabel of Aragon. The capital of the island of Fernando Poo became the capital of Spanish Guinea.

Malabo Löpèlo Mëlaka, King Malabo I of Bioko in 1930.

Its current name was given to it in 1973 as part of President Francisco Macías Nguema's campaign to replace place names of European origin with African names, in honor of Malabo Lopelo Melaka, the last Bubi king. Malabo, son of King Moka, surrendered to the Spanish, while his uncle Sas Ebuera, chief of the Bubi warriors, claimed the legitimacy of the Bubi throne and opposed the Spanish. After his death in a skirmish with the Spanish, Malabo became king without opposition, but without powers. The Bubi clans and localities were slow to accept Spanish sovereignty over the island, and it was not until 1912 that the total pacification of the island was achieved.

Reign of Terror

After the independence of Equatorial Guinea, during the so-called "Reign of Terror" of Macías Nguema, the dictator repressed a large part of the country's intelligentsia, initiating the process of monopolization of public administration positions by the natives of Mongomo and the Esangui clan. Many of the city's inhabitants had to leave it. In the last years of his tenure, almost a fifth of the country's population fled. Malabo (name it acquired in 1973 in the context of place-name changes in Equatorial Guinea) is still trying to heal its wounds from that period, although the successor as head of state, Teodoro Obiang Nguema, president since 1979 through a coup that deposed Macías, has not carried out improvements of any kind.

Behind the barracks near the Governor's Palace, next to a black beach where the Cónsul River flows into, is the ignominious and famous Playa Negra prison (also known as Blay Beach prison or Black Beach according to other versions) where numerous people have been imprisoned since independence in 1968. Among those imprisoned and tortured are many political leaders such as Rafael Upiñalo, Fabián Nsue, Felipe Ondo Obiang, Martín Puye of the Movement for Self-determination of the Island of Bioko (MAIB) or Plácido Micó from the social democratic Convergence for Social Democracy (CPDS).

Geography

View of the Atlantic coast, from Malabo.

Malabo is located north of the island of Fernando Poo or Etula, at coordinates 3° 45' 7.43" North and 8° 46' 25.32" This. The south of Malabo is bounded by the Cónsul River and just on the other side of the river, to the south-west, is the hospital. To the west of the city, located about 9 km from the center of Malabo, is the renovated Malabo-Santa Isabel Airport. In the coastal region north of the city are bays and capes. The largest of the capes is the point of the African Unit located just behind the Presidential Palace and which occupies the entire eastern part of the bay of Malabo. Another important cape is Punta Europa, located to the west of the city, very close to the airport.

Climate

Malabo's weather chart.

Despite its location close to the equator, Malabo has a humid and tropical climate. The city has an average of 1800 mm of rain per year.

Malabo has a small and short dry season between December and February and a long rainy season that covers the remaining nine months. Temperatures throughout the year in the city are relatively constant, with an average of 25 °C.

Average climate parameters of Malabo, Equatorial Guinea
Month	Ene.	Feb.	Mar.	Open up.	May.	Jun.	Jul.	Ago.	Sep.	Oct.	Nov.	Dec.	Annual
Temp. max. abs. (°C)	32.7	35.3	34.0	34.0	32.6	32.0	30.0	30.5	31.0	31.0	31.7	32.5	35.3
Average temperature (°C)	30.2	31.3	30.9	30.5	30.1	28.7	27.7	27.7	28.0	28.4	29.3	29.8	29.4
Average temperature (°C)	25.2	25.8	25.7	25.7	25.4	24.8	24.0	24.0	24.4	24.4	25.0	25.0	25.0
Temp. medium (°C)	20.3	20.3	20.5	20.9	20.8	20.8	20.4	20.3	20.8	20.5	20.6	20.3	20.5
Temp. min. abs. (°C)	17.0	16.5	15.5	16.5	15.0	18.0	17.1	15.0	18.5	17.6	19.0	17.5	15.0
Rains (mm)	39	34	118	186	179	223	263	181	262	231	92	30	1838
Rainy days (≥ 0.1 mm)	4	4	11	15	18	19	19	17	22	19	11	4	163
Hours of sun	120.9	118.7	102.3	108.0	99.2	63.0	43.4	52.7	45.0	68.2	87.0	111.6	1020
Relative humidity (%)	88	86	88	89	89	90	91	92	93	92	92	90	90
Source: Deutscher Wetterdienst

Administration

The current mayoress of the municipality is María Coloma Edjang Mbengono who establishes that the municipal services provided by law and that are the responsibility of the municipality are: supply of drinking water and other public sources, lighting, paving of roads, cemeteries, cleaning and sanitation, sanitary treatment of garbage and waste, disinfection and disinsection, emergency case —first aid—, sanitary and drink inspections, sanitary inspection of unsanitary housing, sanitation, public banks, slaughterhouses, markets and disposal stagnant water among others.

List of mayors since 1960

Cultural spaces

Cultural Center of Spain in Malabo in the capital of Equatorial Guinea.

Through the Spanish Agency for International Development Cooperation (AECID), several development projects are carried out both at a regional and national level. With its headquarters in the Technical Cooperation Office in Malabo (created in 1984), actions are carried out for the development of culture, health, education and institutional strengthening. Highlighting the Cultural Center of Spain in Malabo (CCEM), founded in 2003, where young people are encouraged to feel in a cultural space and where they can unleash their freedom for creativity. It also has three other geographical axes, in order to attract the largest number of people in the region and contribute to its development. Among its activities are training, art, cinema, theater, music and games, together with the two main festivals: the Equatorial Guinea Traveling Film Festival (FECIGE) and the International Hip Hop Festival in Malabo.

Another of the important centers is the Hispano-Guinean Cultural Center, since 2012 the Equatorial Guinean Cultural Center, which began as the headquarters of the Cardenal Cisneros Institute, and later an archive, museum and library. It was built in the 1950s.

One of the main museums is the Museum of Modern Art of Equatorial Guinea, with traditional and contemporary art from the country and the continent. In the city there is also the National Library, whose building was built in 1916, and which became the headquarters of the Spanish Falange and the JONS.

Demographics

Malabo has a relatively young population. Approximately 45% of its population does not exceed 15 years of age. About 4% of the population is over 65 years of age. Most of the population lives in rural areas of the island.^{[citation required]}

Economy

One of the main roads in Malabo in 2015.

Gepetro social headquarters

Malabo is the commercial and financial center of the country. Malabo's economy is based on administration and other services. Trade is also one of the most outstanding and important economic activities, especially since the arrival of companies from the United States which exploit oil wells near the coast. This trade is also due to the presence of other Americans, Latin Americans, Nigerians, Cameroonians, Spaniards and other inhabitants of Central African countries that increase trade. In Malabo is the headquarters of the BEAC or Bank of Central African States. Its building was built by Banco Popular Español, but after independence it became the headquarters of the Bank of Equatorial Guinea.

The substantial profits from oil exploitation have not been applied to the reduction of poverty in the city or the country.

The main industry in the city is fish processing, while cocoa and coffee are the main export products.

Malabo has a high-tonnage port connected mainly to the ports of Duala (Cameroon) and Bata, as well as an air connection through an international airport.

There are about 300 hotel beds, of which only 50 are of quality.

Transportation

Public transportation system

The capital's public transport system includes bus services that run between the center of Malabo and the Ela Nguema neighborhood, taxis that circulate in the city and outlying areas, and rental vehicles called Avis and Europcar.

Sea transport

Port of Malabo.

The port of Malabo can reach a theoretical treatment capacity of 200,000 tons/year. The main maritime links are with a national destination to Bata and international to Spain and Duala in Cameroon.

Air transportation

Airport of Malabo-Santa Isabel.

Malabo International Airport serves the city. It is located 7 km from the center in Punta Europa.

International flights land at the Malabo airport at the following destinations:

• Madrid (Spain): Ceiba Intercontinental (4 weekly flights)
• Paris (France): Air France (3 weekly flights)
• Frankfurt (Germany): Lufthansa (3 weekly flights)
• Casablanca (Morocco): Royal Air Marroc (2 weekly flights)
• Istanbul, Turkey: Turkish Airlines (1 weekly flight)
• Cotonou (Benin): Cronos Airlines (2 weekly flights)
• Abijan (Ivory Coast): Ceiba Intercontinental (3 weekly flights)
• Acra (Ghana): Ceiba Intercontinental (3 weekly flights);
• Sao Tome and Principe: Ceiba Intercontinental (3 weekly flights);
• Duala (Cameroon) Ethiopian Airline (3 weekly flights); Cronos Airlines (3 weekly flights)
• Libreville (Gabon): Royal Air Marrocc (2 weekly flights)
• Port Harcourt (Nigeria): Cronos Airlines (2 weekly flights)
• Acís Abeba (Ethiopia): Ethiopian Airlines (3 weekly flights)

From Malabo airport, you can fly to any of the other airports in the country. These airports are located in the Annobón, Bata, Mongomoyen, and Corisco region.

Education

The National University of Equatorial Guinea (UNGE) and the National Distance Education University (UNED), the latter Spanish and located in the Cultural Center of Spain in Malabo, both have offices in the city. The Enrique Nvó Okenve National College, one of the country's universities, has one of its two campuses in the city.

In Basic Secondary Education (ESBA) and Baccalaureate, there is the Rey Malabo National Institute of Media Education.

Tourism

View of the outskirts of Malabo.

Partial view of Malabo.

The tourism sector is experiencing significant progress. Since the discovery of oil, numerous infrastructures have been built. After the first African meeting held in that country, an important change has been observed in all aspects related to the promotion of tourism. One of them is the famous city of Sipopo, which is designed to host a remunerative business tourism.^{[citation required]}

The city of Malabo is a nerve center for tourism in Equatorial Guinea. Firstly, it has a direct connection with the main tourist attractions of the Bioko Island and secondly, it has a wide range of hotels for all types of public. Among the main tourist places accessible from this city, the following can be highlighted:

• Ureka: This small town located south of the island is rich in primates and birds. It also stands out for its stunning virgin beaches and its natural waterfalls where it is possible to bathe. During the months of November to February, it is possible to observe the deovation of sea turtles during the night.
• Ilachi or Iladyi Waterfalls: They are the largest waterfalls in the country, with more than 250 meters of fall. They are about 45 minutes’ walk from the city of Moca (Equatorial Guinea). They must be accessed through a walk through the jungle crossing several rivers. ^{[chuckles]required]}
• Pico Basilé: It is the highest mountain in Equatorial Guinea, it belongs to volcanic shield next to Mount Cameroon and to the great hillside of Luba. With more than 3000 meters high it is visible from the entire city of Malabo. Their access is relatively simple when there are roads in very good condition. On the top is the amazing church and statue of Mother Bisila. The sculpture was created by the Spanish sculptor Modesto Gené Roig in 1968.^{[chuckles]required]}

Numerous entities such as Rumbo Malabo, Guinea Turismo and other companies, make the country's tourism sector known to the world as well as the virtues and most touristic places.

Places of worship

Cathedral of Ela

Cathedral of Santa Isabel.

Among the places of worship, there are mainly Christian churches and temples: Archdiocese of Malabo (Catholic Church), Universal Church of the Kingdom of God, Assemblies of God. There are also Muslim mosques.

Places of interest

Malabo is a city that conserves buildings from the colonial era such as the Palace of the Presidency and the Palacio de Justicia de Malabo. In the center there are also other colonial buildings, although they are deteriorated, such as the wooden buildings of the XIX century on Nigeria streets and King Boncoro.

Notable constructions include the Cathedral of Santa Isabel, which is also the seat of the Archdiocese of Malabo. It is a neo-Gothic temple, built between 1897 and 1916. Its architect was Luis Segarra Llairadó and it was paid for with contributions from the Spanish government and donations from the faithful. It has two towers 40 meters high. Antoni Gaudí himself may have supervised the plans.

Other places of interest are La Gaditana, a house formerly known as Finca Amilivia, from before 1918, the Teodolita house, from 1902 and one of the oldest in the city, the Malabo town hall building, the church of Elá Nguema, the Plaza de la Independencia, the Cultural Center of Spain and the port bay.

Gastronomy

Restaurants serving grilled fish dishes are famous. Dishes of crocodile, wild boar or antelope meat are cooked with tomato, modica, eggplant or peanut sauce, with rice, fermented cassava, fried or cooked plantain.

Sports

The main sports facility in Malabo, and in the country, is the Malabo Stadium, with capacity for more than 15,000 spectators. International matches have been played there, such as the 2012 African Cup of Nations, or where the Spanish soccer team played, at that time world champion. The main club in the country, Sony Elá Nguema, also plays its matches at this stadium. Other clubs play their matches at the International Stadium, with a capacity for 6,000 spectators, and where the Equatorial Guinea soccer team played its matches until the new stadium was inaugurated.

Malabo Stadium.

The 2012 Africa Cup of Nations was jointly organized by Gabon and Equatorial Guinea and one of the four tournament venues was the Estadio de Malabo, the country's main stadium, inaugurated in 2007. Six matches were played in Malabo from the group stage (one game from group A and five from group B), and a quarterfinal crossover.

On November 16, 2013, the Spanish soccer team played a friendly match against the Equatorial Guinea soccer team. It was the first visit of a European team to the country, and the meeting was criticized by various bodies, such as the president of the National Professional Soccer League, Javier Tebas, due to the political situation in the country and the government of Teodoro Obiang.

Some of the main clubs in the country, which have won the First Division of Equatorial Guinea on several occasions, are from the city of Malabo. The club with the most league titles is Sony Elá Nguema with 14. Other clubs in the city that have been proclaimed league champions are Renacimiento Fútbol Club, Atlético Malabo and Cafe Bank Sportif. Another of the city's clubs is Atlético Semu, champion on one occasion of the Equatoguinean Cup.

Another of the city's important clubs is the Malabo Kings of basketball, which has been the country's champion, and which in 2013 was proclaimed champion of the Central African Basketball Championship, winning Talia in Kinshasa, of Gabon. The Malabo Kings had already finished second in 2011, in Yaoundé (Cameroon). In 2013, the I City of Malabo Basketball Campus was held in Malabo, organized by the Equatorial Guinea Basketball Federation and the Basketball Club Conejero, from Spain.

Twinned cities

• Acayucan Mexico
• Celaya, Mexico
• Guadalajara, Mexico
• Caribbean River, Venezuela
• Havana, Cuba