Geisha
A geisha (芸者 ?), pronounced [gueisha], is a traditional Japanese entertainer whose job is to entertain at parties, gatherings, or banquets, whether exclusively female, male, or mixed. The learning of it usually begins at the age of fifteen, or sometimes at earlier ages.
In the Kinki region the terms geiko (芸妓?< /sup>) and, for apprentice geisha, maiko (舞妓?) have been used since the Meiji Restoration. Geishas were quite common in the 18th and 19th centuries. Today they still exist, but their number has decreased.
History and evolution
Geisha were professional entertainers, and originally most were male. Geishas used their skills in various Japanese arts: music, dance, and storytelling. City geishas 市 (machi 町) worked independently at parties outside the "pleasure quarters", while neighborhood geishas (kuruwa) did so. they did within these. machi and kuruwa geisha were indistinguishable in terms of how to entertain: both types of geisha sang, danced, and learned other traditional arts. However, the difference was that the incense used to mark the duration of the service was less for the kuruwa than for the machi, since they entertained in less crowded places and with a more select audience. As the artistic level of courtesans declined, geishas—male and female—were in greater demand. Around the 17th century, men began to exhaust themselves from courtesans, who, despite being highly educated, did not enjoy the freedom to leave their home, let alone their district. Therefore, many courtesans began to withdraw from their work in order to start a new life.
The first Karyukai to be born was Kamischiken, or "The Upper Seven Houses," as originally there were only seven tea houses and numerous okiya. To this day, the number of ochaya has risen, while that of okiya has fallen.
Male geisha (sometimes known as hōkan 幇間 or taikomochi 太鼓持) began to disappear, and by the 1800s, female geisha (originally known as < i>onna geisha, literally 'female geisha') outnumbered them three to one, and the term "geisha" it began to be used to refer to women with entertainment skills, as it is today.
Traditionally, geishas began their training at a young age. Some young women were sold to geisha houses in their childhood, beginning a stage of work in which they were called shikomi. At this stage they had to do cleaning tasks and obey all kinds of orders that were given to them. they will order They would then begin their training in various traditional arts. Nowadays, the shikomi also work in household chores, and they are accustomed to their independence by preventing all communication with their family for a month or two.
During their childhood, geisha sometimes worked as maids or assistants to the more experienced ones, and later as minarai, apprentice geisha (maiko) during their first years. month of training, where they would only dedicate themselves to observing and adapting; this after a ceremony in which she was paired with a onee-san that she would become her mentor and guide her during her apprenticeship in the karyukai , doing everything possible for her to be famous, talented and respected. This training tradition exists in other disciplines in Japan. The student leaves his home and begins doing chores and assisting her mentor in order to finally become one.
After the first month, the minarai becomes a maiko "junior" and she goes from painting only her lower lip (distinctive of the minarai) to painting both. The learning period traditionally lasted from the age of 15 or 16 to the age of 21, where the maiko became a veteran geisha in a ceremony called Erikae (change of neck) where the neck of her kimono (eri) goes from red to white.
Education
The city of Kyoto keeps the geisha tradition strong, and two of the most prestigious and traditional geisha districts, Gion and Pontochō, are in that city. Geishas from these districts are known as geiko. The hanamachi of Tokyo, Shimbashi, Asakusa and Kagurazaka are also quite well known.
Modern geishas generally during their apprenticeship still live in traditional geisha houses called okiya in areas called hanamachi (花街 'flower street'), although experienced geishas and free of debts they can get to live in their own apartments. The elegant and high culture in which geishas live is called karyūkai (花柳界 'the world of flowers and willows').
Traditionally, geishas began their training at a young age. Due to the misery and famine experienced by some peasants at the time, the girls were sold to the okiya. The sold girl thus acquired a “debt” with her buyer or okaasan , which she would pay with the money offered for her by the men who sought her attention when she became a maiko, and later in geisha. Thus began a stage of work in which they were called shikomi. At this stage they serve as servants in their okiya and assistants to experienced geishas.
Today, shikomi also work at home, are able to dress in Western style, and attend the karyukai school to learn the country's traditional arts. And generally they are accustomed to their independence by preventing all communication with their families for a month or two. Young girls with geisha aspirations begin their training after completing the first years of high school or even high school or higher studies, beginning their career in adulthood.
The next stage of education is when the girl, after passing a dance exam, makes her debut as a minarai. During this stage, the young woman must have an older sister or onee-san , an experienced geisha, who served as a mentor and guide during her apprenticeship in the karyukai . The sisterhood arrangement between the geisha and the apprentice was made through the owner of the okiya or okaasan ("mother" in Japanese), who He agreed with the experienced geisha a payment for the services rendered by being in charge of the apprentice's presentation in society, usually this payment was obtained from the salary that the apprentice generated.
Once the relationship between the geisha and the apprentice had been successfully arranged, the two were paired off by attending the district shrine, where they announced their future relationship to the spirits and subsequently performed the san-san ceremony. -kudo (three-three-changes). In this ceremony, the apprentice and her oneesan-geisha offer each other sake (rice liquor), and drink three sips from three small cups. They then exchange the cup with the okaasan and the owner of the teahouse as well as five witnesses to the ceremony. During the ceremony the young apprentice received her new name, which usually contained in it some character written from her older sister. At the conclusion of this union, the geisha was related for life to her young apprentice.
The older sister was to introduce the younger sister to all the teahouses she worked for, as well as to clients and other geisha she met in order to make the apprentice a well-known, talented, and talented person. respected. This time she served the minarai to adapt and "learn by sight". The girl attended parties, but she kept silent and dedicated herself to imitating her onee-san of the karyukai . By observing other geisha, and with the help of the geisha house owners, the apprentices became skilled in the complex tradition of choosing and wearing kimono, and in dealing with customers. She does makeup by painting only her lower lip and her obi is half the width of the kimono, hanging only to her hips.
After a month or two, the minarai becomes a "junior" and she goes from painting only her lower lip (distinctive of the minarai) to painting both. The learning period traditionally lasted from the age of 15 or 16 to the age of 21, where the Maiko became a veteran geisha in a ceremony called Erikae (change of neck) whose kimono collar (eri) turns from red to white, and change her makeup and hairstyle.
Geisha still study traditional instruments such as:
- The shamisen (PHENING, three-string Japanese musical instrument)
- The shakuhachi (linking, bamboo flute)
- The taiko (USD, drum)
- Traditional songs
- Classic Japanese dance
- Sadō (japanese tea ceremony)
- Ikebana (guidelines, floral arrangements)
- Literature
- Poetry
- Theatre
In modern Japan, geishas and maiko are quite rare. In the 1920s there were about 80,000 geisha in Japan, but today there are about 1,000, due to World War II. However, in Kyoto's Gion district, visitors can spot some maiko on the streets going to or coming from an appointment. A sluggish economy, little interest in the traditional arts, the inscrutable nature of the world of flowers and willows, and the cost of this service have all contributed to the tradition's decline. Tourism has helped keep the tradition alive, as the geisha is considered a mythical image of Japan. However, the excess of tourism in recent years has drastically reduced the presence of geishas in the Gion neighborhood, which has forced the introduction of measures to protect them from harassment by tourists.
Geisha are hired to attend parties and gatherings, traditionally in tea houses (茶屋, chaya) or traditional Japanese riotei (料亭 ryōtei?) restaurants. Its time is measured according to how long it takes to consume an incense stick (called senkodai (線香代 senkōdai? or 'tariff incense stick') or gyokudai (玉代?) ('fee jewel') Another term for fee is ohana (fee flower).), who keeps each geisha's schedule and makes their appointments for entertainment or training.
Geishas and prostitution
There is still some confusion, especially outside of Japan, about the nature of the geisha profession. This confusion has been compounded by the comparison with oiran, particularly in onsen.
The geisha could get married, although the vast majority preferred to retire before getting married, and they could have children out of wedlock. Also now they can go to university and it is believed that they are totally free to choose a boyfriend or lover. While it is known that engagements generally include flirting and even suggestive jokes (albeit coded in traditional ways), the debate still rages due to some covert secrecy that taboos the subject of sexual activities and is protected by the own Japanese social secrecy to openly discuss issues of this nature. Some claim that they never include sexual activity, that a geisha is not paid for sex, and that some may choose to have a relationship that includes sex with a client outside of her role as such. However, such claims remain disputed by others who claim the opposite.[citation needed]
It was traditional for geisha to have a danna, or lover. A danna was generally a wealthy man, sometimes married, who had resources to finance the costs of traditional geisha training and other considerable expenses. Although a geisha and hers danna might be in love, the relationship is subject to the danna 's ability to provide some financial support. The values and covenants attached to this type of relationship are not well understood, even among the Japanese.
There is speculation about the sale of a geisha's virginity and body to a single customer (until the danna got tired and then another one would be found). The publication of the novel Memoirs of a Geisha generated great controversy on this issue, because the debate on whether geishas sell or sold their virginity increases. On the contrary, the ceremony was held shortly before the erikae and consisted of visiting all the closest clients and clients, thanking them for the care they provided while learning the maiko and finally, deliver a Japanese sweet in exchange for financial aid.[citation needed]
Contrary to popular belief, the geisha does not cater only to men. She, from her beginnings, also had clients with whom she forged relationships such as with a male client. Even children's or adult birthdays were often celebrated with geishas as company.
Appearance
A geisha's appearance changes throughout her career, from the feminine and made-up maiko, to the mature appearance of an older, established geisha.
Makeup
Today, the traditional make-up of the apprentice geisha is one of the most recognizable features, although experienced geishas often wear the signature maiko make-up of a completely white face during special performances.
Traditional makeup for apprentice geisha consists of a white base (originally made with lead), the use of red lipstick, and red and black trim around the eyes and eyebrows.
Makeup application is difficult to perfect and is quite a lengthy process. Makeup is applied before dressing to avoid soiling the kimono. First, an oil or wax substance, called bintsuke-abura, is applied to the skin. Rice powder is then mixed with water to form a paste that is applied with a bamboo brush. White make-up covers the face, neck, chest and hands, with two or three unpainted areas (forming a "W" or "V") near the nape to accentuate this erotic zone., and an exposed area of skin around the hair, which creates the illusion of a mask. The "W" it is worn with the formal kimono (black).
After the foundation has been applied, a sponge is swabbed across the face, neck, chest, and nape to absorb excess moisture and even out the foundation. Then the eyes and eyebrows are remarked. Traditionally charcoal was used, but today modern cosmetics are used. The eyebrows and the rims of the eyes are painted black; Maiko also wear red around their eyes.
The lips are painted with a small brush simulating a sensual lip contour, heart-shaped on top and very round, having small variations from district to district. The color comes in a small stick that is mixed with water. Crystallized sugar is added to shine the lips.
For the first three years, a maiko wears her makeup almost constantly. On the day of her mishidashi (or debut as a maiko) a professional makeup artist is hired. Formerly the owner of the okiya or the onee san made up in full view of all the inhabitants of the okiya. During her initiation, the maiko is aided by hers onee-san or the & # 34;okaa-san & # 34; (mother) of her geisha house. After her she must apply makeup on her own.
Sometimes a maiko in the final stages of her apprenticeship may decide whether to dye her teeth black, a tradition known in Japan as ohaguro. This custom was customary among married women in Japan and formerly at the imperial court, but today it survives only in a few districts. It is done in part because unstained teeth look too yellowish compared to pale facial makeup. Blackening the teeth allows them to "disappear" in the darkness of the open mouth, an illusion more pronounced the greater the distance.
The geisha, having worked for three years, changes her makeup to a more subdued style. The reason is her coming of age, since her simple style shows her natural beauty. For formal occasions the mature geisha still wears white makeup. For geishas over the age of thirty, white makeup is used only in special dances that require it. It is worth saying that the makeup varies slightly by district or also by the taste of the geisha.
Outfit
A geisha or maiko needs to wear a certain undergarment before putting on the kimono. They do not wear western underwear, but instead wear long white ribbons around their chests and hips. It's hard to get used to going to the bathroom in these clothes. On top of them, she dons a cotton garment in the shape of the kimono collar, reaching approximately to her knees. The nagajuban is put on this garment. The nagajuban, for the maiko, is always red and may have floral prints. These prints can be white, or gold for special occasions. In the case of geishas, their nagajuban is red, pink or pale pink and their patterns are also floral. The kimono is made from a tan, a traditional Japanese measure that is 37cm wide and 12 meters long. In the case of a geisha or maiko's kimono, it must be made from two tan. This is so because the maiko and geisha kimono are much longer than normal kimonos, such as a houmongi, a tomesode, a furisode, etc.
On top, a pair of long panties so as not to "show too much" if the kimono accidentally opens in front. Over these garments a kind of light blouse is worn, of the same cut as the kimono, called a hadajuban, although shorter. On this is worn the nagajuban (skirt) whose cloth is seen under the kimono and is red (for the maiko) or pink (for the geiko). It is a kind of skirt a little shorter than the kimono and tied under the bust. The kimono goes over this garment, which is then held on by a cord called datejime. On this the obi is fastened, in turn held by a cord called Obijime. An obi brooch is attached to this, called pocchiri for the maiko, very ornate; or obi dome, more discreet, for a veteran geisha.
Geishas always wear kimono. Apprentice geisha wear colorful kimonos with extravagant obi. Older geishas use more subdued styles and designs. It is also important to highlight the length of the sleeves. The (maiko) trainees wear furisode with sleeves that reach almost to the ground. As they advance in age and level in the profession, the sleeves become tomesode, shorter, darker in color and more elegant.
The color, pattern, and style of the kimono depend on the season and event the geisha is attending. In winter, geishas can be seen wearing a haori (coat) trimmed with painted silk over their kimono. Lined kimonos are worn during cold seasons, and light or silk chiffon ones during summer.
Geisha wear low-soled sandals made of wood and lacquer, called zori, and indoors they wear only tabi (split-toed socks). In snowy areas, geishas use wooden clogs, called geta. The maiko wear very high black clogs, okobo. Maiko kimonos are very colorful, with various designs of flowers and landscapes. The nagajuban (garment worn under the kimono) is also very colorful (usually red) and should be worn to match the kimono. The furi are very long; they reach almost to the ankles. On the other hand, the geiko kimonos are discreet, uniform and with a very simple pattern. The furi are shorter and reach the height of the hips.
In order to wear the kimono, geishas and maiko need help from another person. Years ago, this wardrobe assistant was a man. Currently, they are usually middle-aged women, although there are still men. These helpers are called otokosu. They are in charge of dressing the geishas, adjusting the kimono and tying the obi. It is one of the few trades that a man can practice in the world of the Flower and the Willow. The otokosu are usually the sons of women who work in the okiya or sons of former geishas or okasan. Currently, there are only five in Kyoto.
Hairstyle
Geisha hairstyles have varied throughout history. In the past, it was common for women to wear their hair down at some times, but up at others. During the seventh century, women began to always wear their hair up again, and it was during this time that the traditional shimada hairstyle, a type of 'chignon', was adopted. used by experienced geishas.
It is traditional for the maiko to wear the Sakkou (with a strip of hair left over from the bun) in their erikae; during Gion Odori, Katsuyama the month before and the month after; for his debut, the Mishidashi; and for New Years, the Yakkoshimada. On the other hand, the geiko do not use such a wide variety of hairstyles, but the Katsuyama and the Yakkoshimada, while in their daily lives they use the Ofuku. In Pontocho there are 5 more styles: Kikusagane, Umemodoki/osomemage, Osafune, Oshiyun and Oshidori no Hina. Generally, the tightness of these hairstyles and the method of scratching the scalp with a rod cause alopecia, which has made wigs popular.
These hairstyles are decorated with elaborate combs and hairpins. In the 17th century and after the Meiji Restoration, hair combs were large and showy, generally used by high-class women. After the Meiji Restoration and into the modern era, smaller, less showy combs became popular.
Many modern geisha wear wigs in their professional lives that require regular care by skilled artisans. The traditional art of styling is on the verge of extinction.
The geisha in popular culture
The growing interest in the exotic appearance of geishas has created several cultural phenomena in Japan and the West. Recently, geisha-inspired makeup lines were brought to the West after the popularity achieved by the novel and film Memoirs of a Geisha, which falls far short of the realism of the autobiography Life of a geisha, by geisha Mineko Iwasaki with the collaboration of Rande Brown.
In 1999, American singer Madonna appeared in the music video for Nothing Really Matters in a geisha-inspired outfit with white makeup.
In 2005, the Japanese video game company Tecmo released the fourth installment of Dead or alive where a new character named Kokoro appeared, who is a 17-year-old girl who trains with her mother to become into a geisha, despite initially refusing to follow her training. At the end of the game you can see how she overcomes her denial and she manages to become a traditional geisha just like her mother. In the game's intro, various promotionals as well as the game's manual she can be seen wearing a traditional pink kimono, which ironically cannot be worn in the game.
In Code Lyoko, a series created by Antefilms (now MoonScoop), one of the protagonists, Yumi Ishiyama, can be seen wearing a geisha outfit when she enters LYOKO. In the 4th season of this same series, we can see her as a kind of "futuristic geisha", just like Ulrich in her samurai outfit.
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