Chifa gastronomy
Chifa is a term originating in Peru to refer to Chifa cuisine or Peruvian-Chinese gastronomy, that is, to the customs culinary traditions carried and adapted by Chinese immigrants since the mid-XIX century, as well as the Peruvian-oriental chifa restaurants where this food is is served.
Chifa cuisine has evolved enormously and has acquired its own personality, forming part of Peruvian gastronomy since the 19th century XIX.
Etymology
The origin of the term "chifa" would come from the combination of the Cantonese terms "chi" and "fan" (吃飯), which mean, respectively, "to eat" and "rice". The term would have arisen in the in the 1930s among the people of Lima when they heard the Chinese use the word chifan as a call to eat in the taverns they ran.
Expansion
In Ecuador the term has arrived thanks to its proximity to Peru and the presence of Peruvian immigration. Chifa gastronomy has become popular and is consumed by the population. In this country, this type of food originates from the fusion between Chinese gastronomy and Ecuadorian gastronomy, as a result of the immigration of Chinese nationals to the country at the beginning of the century XX.
History
The Chinese migrant arrives in Peru under the name "culí" since 1849. Chinese workers signed a contract in which they agreed to work for eight years for the landowners. Generally these contracts were signed in Macao; this document allowed the immigrant to enter Peru without problems. Likewise, it assured the intermediary between the Chinese and the contractors, the compensation that the State gave for each worker. It forced the contracting party to allocate part of his land to the cultivation of edible plants of Chinese origin for the consumption of the contracted parties. However, in many cases Chinese immigrants suffered conditions similar to slavery, due to the high debts they contracted to come to Peru and live in this country and to the manipulations of their employers.
The Chinese who arrived in Peru began to integrate into society, adapting to customs, but always maintained their culinary tradition. As they progressed economically, they imported the necessary products from China and planted their own vegetables so that they lacked nothing. Even some Creole dishes such as tacu-tacu or lomo saltado are believed to have been influenced by the Chinese. In this way, one can speak of a Chinese-Peruvian cuisine, with features that distinguish it from other cuisines of Chinese origin.
From fondas to chifas
The origin of the chifas as they are currently known was in the Chinese inns that the coolies organized when they obtained their freedom. These were small lodging and food businesses aimed at the popular sectors. The oldest documents that give an account of their operation date from the years 1863 and 1874, in the cities of Camaná and Huánuco, respectively.
The first chifa in Lima was formally inaugurated in 1921, it was known as “Kuong Tong” (Canton) and the term “taypá” was coined there; It belonged to the wealthy Peruvian Juan Iglesias or Chan Kay Chu, founder of the Tayouc Club and consul of China in Peru, it was located on Capón street, which at that time was already known as the Chinatown of Lima.
In 1934 the renovated San Joy Lao opened its doors, which would achieve great renown, although it had been operating since 1911 as a small family business. Later it was followed by Tonquin Sen, Ton Pho (which took the name of an ancient poet Chinese), the Kam Lin and the Men Yut, among others.
The upper classes of Lima accepted the sweet and sour sauce, the chaufa rice, the soft soups and other preparations of this cuisine. Also from there, the housewife incorporated into her menus the use of kion (ginger), sillao (soy sauce), jolantao, Chinese onion, Chinese cabbage, pakchoy and many other Chinese ingredients that visit the daily table of Lima. Chifa food became popular and highly consumed, later in the capital and departments of the country there were stores that sold this type of food, which are also called "chifas".
In 1950 the first “chifa” recipe book was published within a recipe book for Creole food and Peruvian pastries.
Most popular dishes
Starters and appetizers
They are usually accompanied with tamarind sauce, hoisin sauce, soy sauce, and a Chinese spicy sauce.
- Wantan fried
- Siu Mai
- Ja kao
- Sui kao
- Spring roll
- Chanqui
Soups
- Sopa wantán
- Soup womín
- Soup fuchifu
- Sopa sui kao
Most Popular Dishes
- Rice chaufa: It is a very popular dish consisting of a fried rice where the ingredients are salted in a wok at a very high temperature. There are many versions of chaufa rice according to the meat used: chicken, beef, pork, lobsters, seafood, charqui, among others. In Peruvian homes, a version of “criollo” chaufa is also prepared, adding ingredients such as hot dog or fish. The consumption of the chaufa rice in the Peruvian popular restaurants (not only in the chifas) is assumed as a dish of background, while in those of higher rank it is had as a companion of the special dishes.
- Tallarin jumped: cooked noodles made of wheat flour. Then they are salted in a wok at high temperatures with various types of vegetables and meats.
- Airport: Plato popularized in the 1990s is the combination of chaufa rice and carpentry jumped on a single plate. It is often characterized by serving in large portions. By extension it is also called airport to any combination of chifa dishes served generously.
- Chicken with tamarindo.
- Chancho with tamarindo.
- Kam Lu Wantan.
- Taypa special.
- Chijaukai chicken.
- Chicken Ti Pa Kay.
Sweets
- Min pao: A kind of baked dough ball with steam filled with colad beans. The min pao also has its salty version with other fillings. In Lima it is very popular and easy to find in Chinese snacks and places; in the interior of the country, on the contrary, it is rare and almost nonexistent.
Drinks
- Te jasmine. Its consumption is very traditional. It is served in cups or small teapots with capacity to serve 3 or 4 people.
- Pisco sour Chinese: It is an elaborate drink based on the traditional Peruvian sour pisco recipe, adding "chirimoyita china" or lichi.
- Inca Kola: Many people in Peru recommend to accompany the chifa with the Inca Kola gaseous drink.
Accompaniments
The chifa dishes are accompanied by sillao and some others with tamarind sauce. In many chifas, the mixing process is evident with other accompaniments such as chili sauce, rocoto and lemon juice.
Sociocultural impact
This food is very different from Chinese food that can be enjoyed in other parts of the world. Its integration with the Peruvian seasoning itself has given a very special flavor to its various dishes; resulting in a food with a different flavor despite the fact that many times the cooks are first generation Chinese.
Chifa cuisine has strongly established itself in the taste of Peruvian diners; Thus, chifa restaurants became essential places for all kinds of celebrations. With the international rise of Peruvian gastronomy, chifa food has been expanding to other countries in the region. Likewise, Peruvian migration has given rise to the opening of chifa cuisine establishments in several countries, such as Bolivia, Chile, Brazil, Argentina, Ecuador, Colombia, the US, Spain and Canada.
Gallery
Sopa wantán
Special chaufa rice with Inca Kola
Tallarín jumped
Chi Jau Kay
Kam Lu Wantán
Taypá on the plate
Airport
